Dubrovnik: Jewel of the Adriatic
I sweep my gaze imperiously across a sea of terracotta tiles, assessing the glory of the medieval city laid bare at my feet. I admire the ornate spires and labyrinth alleys, absorbing centuries of unspoilt history. I trace the line of the unbroken city walls which embrace the old town, protecting it from its enemies. I lift my gaze beyond, across a sea shimmering in the light of the sun, scrutinising colourful specks out at sea, a herd of little people in little kayaks.
Harry appears like smoke at my shoulder. ‘’Not bad’’, he smirks.
‘’Not bad’’, I murmur, lost in fascination.
The Grand Entrance
Dubrovnik is a gorgeous historic city which flourished from maritime trade in the 15th and 16th centuries. Although it was badly shelled during a siege in the 1990s, you wouldn’t realise it today, as it stands as if untouched for centuries. It’s no surprise that it was selected as a filming location for HBO’s Game of Thrones (serving as King’s Landing), as well as for the upcoming Star Wars: Episode VIII. It’s also enlisted by UNESCO as a world heritage site.
The best first impression of Dubrovnik is definitely achieved by arriving by boat. We had set off from Cavtat and were soon gliding nicely alongside the Dalmatian coast. The city slowly begins to take shape before your eyes. Nestled in a bay, the very first detail to behold is the chalk white mass of the formidable city walls, an angled barrier that has stood the test of time for centuries. As we edged closer, we were surprised to be find ourselves slowing down to give way to a herd of sea kayakers (I believe ‘herd’ is the technical term). I made a mental note to follow in their footsteps (umm, or paddle strokes? It’s really just an expression).
We then slide past the island of Lokrum on our left side, which can be easily visited from Dubrovnik if you fancy playing with wild peacocks or bunnies, or simply want to unwind on a nudist beach. Either way, don’t plan on staying the night, because I am reliably informed the island is cursed (and we all known such stories are simply fabricated and pedaled to naïve tourists). Bearing right towards the coast, we gazed up at the looming peak of Mt. Srd, a strenuous hike or leisurely cable car journey away from Dubrovnik, which offers spectacular panoramic views of the old town and surrounding coastline.
Easing into the harbour, I am mildly pleased to note an absence of any super yachts, instead admiring the humble jamboree of watercraft on show. Catching my breath, I whistle to see a mock pirate ship moored up across the pier. At least I hope it’s a mock pirate ship. Either way, I’ve leapt ashore, cutlass in hand, ready to explore. Oh, sorry that was a typo, I meant camera in hand.
Old Town
The old town of Dubrovnik is almost overwhelmingly historic, which I mean as the highest compliment. It sweeps you away, as if the centuries simply crumble away. It creates a mirage capable of showing you, vividly, how the world appeared so long ago in its most splendid form. I was in fact rather disappointed to never bump into Ceresie Lannister. But, honestly, it is one of best preserved cities in Europe, absolutely full of beautiful architecture. It’s probably in my top 5 and I’ve been to Rome and Carcassonne (Athens was disappointing).
Now, the best way to view the city in all its glory is to walk the circuit of the high city walls. The walk isn’t particularly strenuous, especially as you will stopping every few minutes to admire the views and snap some photos. The highlight is probably climbing up the fort in the far corner, as this provides the best vantage point available to view the city with the Adriatic Sea as a stunning backdrop. It’s also a convenient way to get a bird’s eye view of the city and spy out any bars, shops, restaurants, churches or museums. You might find yourself getting a little lost in the labyrinth of alleyways once you’re back at ground level!
Drink, Sun, Sea
The real perk of Dubrovnik is that one minute you can be sight-seeing, then the next enjoying a cocktail in sun or shade by the sea, even getting totally refreshed with a cheeky swim! Having completed your steps quota for the day already, you’ll not feel at all guilty about sunbathing and drinking a cocktail (or two, or three). Even better, having already spied the perfect bar from the lofty city walls, you will know exactly where to go.
Café Buza is nestled into the rocky coastline just below the city walls. With plenty of seating, most with the option of a retractable shade, you can relax whether you’re still chasing the sun or trying to temporarily escape it. There’s access to the sea if you want to swim (which people do). You’ll find yourself amidst a relaxed clientele of international tourists and perhaps even a few locals too.
We very happily wiled away many hours here, as did many others, judging by the familiar faces we saw on our return on the second day. We worked our way around the cocktails menu, the top-notch Strawberry Daiquiri coming out on top as group favourite. It’s literally the perfect bar that you day-dreamed about when you imagined your holiday.
Going the Extra Mile
If you literally want to go the extra mile, then you can climb up Mt. Srd to enjoy sweeping panoramic views of Dubrovnik and the surrounding coastline. For the record, I didn’t actually do the climb, but a few more intrepid members of the group did. The ascent takes roughly 1 hr 30, so be prepared for strenuous exercise. However, the rewards make it worth your while.
The hike itself is shaded in parts and greener than it appeared from the ground, as I was surprised by how nice the trail seemed from my friend’s photos. Once you reach the top, there is a bar from which you can enjoy the stunning views at your leisure, whilst sipping on that hard to find German Erdinger. From up here, you’ll see it all, the terracotta lattice of Dubrovnik’s old town, the glistening waters of the Adriatic, the string of offshore islands stretching along the coast. Once you are fully satisfied, you can hop onto the cable car to fast-forward to the front gate of Dubrovnik’s old town.
Oh, there’s a cable car you say? Well, I’ll just buy a return ticket and skip the whole hike business out. Well, yeah, you could do that. But hang on, you’ve dropped something. It’s your sense of adventure.
Sea Kayaking
One of my highlights from Dubrovnik was the guided sea kayaking adventure I went on. You don’t need any prior experience to do it, nor do you need to be particularly fit, as the pace is very leisurely. The tour lasts for three hours, taking you out of a picturesque shallow bay into the Adriatic. You do a loop around the island of Lokrum before heading to a sheltered cave close by Dubrovnik, where you can indulge in a cheeky bit of swimming and snorkelling. Then you follow the line of the city walls to return into Dubrovnik once again.
It was so cool to paddle at the feet of the lofty city walls, as they loom so impressively above you. It was also great to escape the heat by swimming for a while. It was also an ideal opportunity to exploit my GoPro camera, which is perfect on and under the water. If you don’t have a GoPro yet, I’d strongly advise you to buy you! The basic model is plenty.
So what are you waiting for?